Skeleton Coast

 Posted by Elizabeth at 4:16 pm
Apr 262011

We left Spitzkoppe reasonably early and headed back towards the coast. What a surprise, but 80km from the coast we hit the inevitable thick grey mist again! At least today we only got stuck in it whilst we were inland and our drive up the coast was not completely invisible. We thought the landscape could not get any more barren, desolate and inhospitable than what we had encountered near Swakopmund, yet most of today we travelled up the Skeleton Coast which was even worse.

We stopped off at the Cape Cross Seal Reserve. It is estimated there are 100,000 seals here (yes 100,000!) and it smells like it. (Girls, imagine the worst smelling market we have visited and multiply it by about 1000 and that is how bad it smelt). It was definitely mouth breathing only and even then I nearly threw up a couple of times it was that foul. The smell aside though, it was a pretty awesome sight seeing so many seals crammed together in the ocean and on the beach. There were also some pups around feeding from their mothers.

Cape Cross Seal ReserveCape Cross Seal ReserveCape Cross Seal Reserve

Skeleton Coast ParkWe drove along the Skeleton Coast, passing salt pans and a couple of shipwrecks and some abandoned mining gear. There were no animals or grass to be seen and the only humans were the few tourists. Early on we came across a bogged vehicle but they managed to get out just as we walked up, and we managed to get through just fine.



Skeleton CoastSkeleton Coast ParkSkeleton Coast Park

About 40km from the coast we exited the Skeleton Coast Park and suddMowani Mountain Campenly the landscape changed. There was grass and trees and hills and animals again! We saw more Springbok as we headed towards Twyfelfontein where we stayed the night at Mowani Mountain Camp. They cater mainly for lodge guests, but have 3 campsites, each with their own long drop toilet and cold outside shower (we opted to use our own so it was hot!), washing up facilities, water and are quite separate from each other. It was great value at only $N100 ($14).

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